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Old 12-12-2006, 02:14 PM   #1
kobb44
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what glue is good to stick shelves into a humi with?

I checked the search and got mixed messages.
I was going to screw some shelves in but someone
said they may split the wood when humidity is up, and right enough in my desktops
there are no screws-but there are shelf quivalents-
so what glue are they using?
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Old 12-13-2006, 05:52 AM   #2
audio1der
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I found an outdoor glue meant to be used in high humidity environments, and it happened to be odourless. I aired the fridge out for a few days afterwards, and have never smelled glue. Think I got it at Home Depot.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXLLR1&P=

Hope this helps- I was VERY happy with it.
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Old 12-13-2006, 06:12 AM   #3
kobb44
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thanks amigo!
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Old 12-13-2006, 09:22 AM   #4
Thomkm
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When I did my Fridgador a few years ago I friction fit all the pieces and didn't use any glue. It worked out fine as the spanish cedar expanded it tightened up the entire unit..here's some pics of the project.

http://galleries.cigarweekly.com/Thomkm/album01?page=1
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Old 12-13-2006, 11:41 AM   #5
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I skipped the first couple pics in that album and was going to ask where is there a fridgador in any of them...really looks quite nice


hopefully that friction fit never slips out in ya but seems like the expanding would keep em in there pretty well
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Old 12-13-2006, 02:55 PM   #6
kobb44
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Nice job Thom.
I might try 'friction fit' but I'm not that
good a joiner.
Though I suppose I could make crude
wedges;the spanish cedar cuts beautifully.
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Old 12-13-2006, 07:14 PM   #7
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Just remember that most of the expansion of the Spanish cedar will occur in the 'across-the-grain' (|||||) dimension. It is therefore wise to allow for a small percentage of expansion when making those cuts. Otherwise, you run the risk of experiencing some bowing, as the humidified/expanded wood will have no where to go but up or down. The 'with-the-grain' (====) dimension, in contrast, will expand only very minimally.
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Old 12-13-2006, 07:58 PM   #8
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Since the glue won't be in direct contact with water or liquid, just about anything will work. These are the most commonly-available and commonly-used glues, and all become non-toxic and odor-free once cured:

Yellow and white wood glues are most common for wood-to-wood joints. There are several types of yellow glue, including a water proof version if you are really concerned about moisture breaking down the glue over time.

Polyurethane is a bit more difficult to work with, and needs rather precise joints to create a strong bond (foamed glue is very weak) although the foam will sort of fill voids if strength is not needed. Its 100% waterproof, and squeeze-out cleans up easier than most everything else. Clamp tightly, as the foaming glue can push things out of line.

Epoxy is relatively easy to apply, and offers the most technical options to tailor the glue to your specific needs. However, it needs precise measuring of the two parts and thorough mixing to cure properly, so the stakes are a bit higher if you screw up when mixing and the glue doesn't cure. Clean-up is a pain too, so use disposable mixing and application tools wherever possible. Fast-cure epoxies are less likely to drip, but like polyurethane, you'll want to use as little as possible to get a good bond. You can mix a little wood flour/wood dust into the glue to thicken it and create color-matched filler for imprecise joints, too. Just use minimal clamp pressure as too much will squeeze out most of the glue resulting in a weak joint.

CA/Cyanoacrylate/Super glue is good for tacking things into place and fixing small splits or making minor repairs. It lacks real strength however, and only thickened gap filling versions work on anything but precise joints. This glue gives off some nasty eye- and nose-burning fumes, so watch out if you are using a lot of it.

Hide glue is low-toxicity, but tends to break down over time and all but ready-use versions require heating for use. Better options are available for most joinery, so this is more of a specialty anymore.
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Old 12-14-2006, 03:22 AM   #9
kobb44
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I think I'll go back to glue for some shelf supports.

It's just my local hardware store has people who will say
anything you want to hear about DIY products.
I don't want to have bought all the fancy wood etc.
only to find the whole thing starts to smell like a gas station.

Don't worry JN, there will be plenty or room for expansion
in my joinery cuts!
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Old 12-14-2006, 04:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobb44
Nice job Thom.
I might try 'friction fit' but I'm not that
good a joiner.
Though I suppose I could make crude
wedges;the spanish cedar cuts beautifully.
When I first decided to do the conversion the game plan was to be able to remove all the Spanish cedar and return the ice box to the original condition if I ever wanted too. The no glue bit kinda added to the challenge. I did use 1” braids for the drawers. Believe me I have very limited carpentry skills. It wasn’t that difficult but it took quite a bit of prior planning.
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