Cigar Weekly

Ljutic · 09-08-2002, 03:39 PM

Received the green light to plan my walk-in humidor in the rear of a 4'x22' heated/cooled storage space with 9.5' high ceilings. Exterior storage space walls are 2"x6" construction, underground, and placed well away from exterior walls. Heating and cooling vent for the closet is set approx in the center of the 22' wall. Walk-in will not have it's own vent as it looks right now. I will be installing two electrical outlets and an overhead light fixture. I think a Cat5 cable hookup could be an option so I could monitor the status of the walk-in from my PC, but that might be going a bit over the top.

Some questions for those that have undertaken these projects.

I'm flexible in length, but not width. I think 4'x4'x9.5 would be the most cost effective size because construction materials come in 1' 4' and 8' as standard. To me, 4x4 should offer plenty of storage space for my needs.

The wife thinks it should be 4'x5'x9.5'. Is there any advantage of 4x4 over 4x5 from a construction cost perspective?

Should I have the builder add a HVAC vent in the walk in space?

I'm considering a natural brick tile type of floor that will hold humidity. Is this a good idea?

I'm very open to thoughts about a proper door for the space. It's going to be a hidden closet, so beauty isn't a requirement. What type of door is the best option for the job?

It think that's all my questions for now. Thanks in advance for the help. I cross posted this over at CF as well so if you respond here, you don't need to respond over there. Thanks again.

ferdelance · 09-08-2002, 04:09 PM

i think a vent would be a very good idea, to let stale air get out.

the eternal marxist

SagevF · 09-09-2002, 02:51 AM

Ljutic,

Speaking strictly and only as a commercial/industrial journeyman electrician, I thought this might help.

Concerning the cat 5 cable, it has been my experience that if you think you might want the cat 5 then put it in. It is easy to do when the job starts and a royal pain to do after the job has been done and completed. In the commercial industrial field we always tried to pipe our electrical home runs whenever it was possible. That way we could always add circuits later on. In your case, piping is probably not the answer. What I am trying to say is you should consider making your electrical as upgradeable as possible in case you change your humidor configuration later on. For the outlets themselves you will probably need GFI (ground fault circuit interrupter) receptacles (outlet) or a GFI breaker controlling the outlets in you humidor. The reason for this is that the damp environment in the walk in could be classified as a damp location in the NEC code and could be required. I would have to check my Code Book on that one (hmmm walk in humidor flip, flip that’s a new one). Consult your electrical contractor and local codes, as well, for any other considerations. For the cat 5 make sure it is not in the same pipe or too close to you electrical wires. Sometimes the static electrical field that surrounds the electrical wires can cause interference with cat 5 cable and its associated devices. The result, you spend a couple weeks trying to figure out why you system is acting wacky only to find the cable is too close. It doesn’t happen every time but once is enough. Finally, I do not know what part of the country you live in, but I do know that some basements back east and in the mid west have moisture problems in the basements and can get moldy. So it would seem a reasonable precaution to check and make sure the basement is relatively dry and sound before you begin. We don’t have too many basements in California because of the earthquakes.

I hope this helps you with your project.

Sagevf

hank · 09-09-2002, 05:52 AM

When I built my room I was going to put in a French door, but decided against it. I had a door made to fit my opening, it’s an oak door, made for an exterior installation, no glass, weather striped all around it’s nice and tight. If your going to cool and humidified the room make sure your door is not the weak point.

Hank

Benecio · 09-09-2002, 08:53 PM

I'm on my second one Bruce,so FWIW heres what I learned from the first one. Make it bigger than you THINK you'll need!

Buy the best humidifier/hygrometer set-up you can afford,spend the money here!jmo.

As to your inquiry as to 4x4 being more cost effective than 4x5,yes,for your above stated reasons,but again,build more than you THINK you'll need!

I don't know your intended shelf configuration,but with that space,I'd go with shelves on only 2 walls,preferably an L-shape config.,you can always add shelves,you DON'T want to have to remove any!!
NOTHING is more frustrating ,at least for me,than having limited space to move around or banging into a shelf as you stand up.

Do a great job on the vapor barrier,tape over staples,screws,whatever you use.

Put ENOUGH screws ,I used stainless,in your Spanish Cedar panels/boards,that cover the walls,and make sure you have ample support,in the wall,be it for mounted or tracked shelving.

One if not 2 auxillary fans is a must,to help direct the humidty to the upper shelving,OR,dead air space,depending on where you place your humidifier.

My first one had no AC vent as it was in the middle of the house,and kept pretty cool. As for the stale air,as often as I was in it,wasn't an issue imo!

The door on my was louvered,I simply put a piece of 1/4 Spanish Cedar Paneling on the back side,rabbited to fit inside the cornice on the door frame when closed.I'd suggest at least a solid core door,but the sky's the limit there.
I had Spanish Cedar, 1/4 paneling on the floor,w/vapor barrier,tile sounds nice though,and I paln on using it in my new one!

And it goes without saying,a good seal on the door.I used a soft cellulose stripping screwed to the cornice of the door frame as well as the threshold stop,this must be applied with the door installed and closed for the best seal.
I'm sure some of this is redundant for you, as I was to lazy to go look up the thread at CF.

My next one,which is going into an new addition on our house,MIGHT possibly have a small chiller w/ 1 3/4 celotex panels and green gyp rock,leaded glass door,built in auxillary fans,black phosphate shelving and supports,still in the planning stage,I'll let you know. Good luck bro.!

Dr. X · 09-09-2002, 09:52 PM

I'll be watching this one carefully as I am looking to enlarge, re-do, etc. one of my walk-ins.

Good luck.

Dr. X

hank · 09-10-2002, 06:15 AM

Ljutic here is a link for some pictures of what I built. http://photos.yahoo.com/surveyor01001
It’s for wine and cigars, if I could change one thing I would have used more of the room for cigars, I do have so changes in mind to increase that.

Hank

Ljutic · 09-10-2002, 09:13 PM

Awesome job on the walk-in Hank. Can you send me info on the climate control unit in the first picture. Not sure I'll need it, but would be nice to have the info just in case. I see you put your Aristocrat in the walk-in. I think I'll be doing the same.

hank · 09-11-2002, 06:08 AM

Bruce, the cooling unit is an Odyssey Vintage Keeper I ordered it from them they are made in Toronto, WWW.Vintagekeeper.com

I do have my Staebell, built Aristocrat in the room, that I’m going to change. I will be selling that, and use the space for a system I’m going to build this winter.

Hank

Edited by - hank on 09/11/2002 07:10:55 AM

Ljutic · 09-12-2002, 06:07 AM

Thanks again for the info Hank. If I need interior cooling, that's the place I'll go.

09-08-2002, 04:09 PM	#2
ferdelance Herf Meister Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: outside Possum Kingdom SC Posts: 6,551	i think a vent would be a very good idea, to let stale air get out. the eternal marxist __________________ Retired Knight Errant. "Lifes too short to drink bad coffee"

09-09-2002, 08:53 PM	#5
Benecio Charter Member Herf Meister Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Alamo Heights, Texas USA Posts: 5,271	I'm on my second one Bruce,so FWIW heres what I learned from the first one. Make it bigger than you THINK you'll need! Buy the best humidifier/hygrometer set-up you can afford,spend the money here!jmo. As to your inquiry as to 4x4 being more cost effective than 4x5,yes,for your above stated reasons,but again,build more than you THINK you'll need! I don't know your intended shelf configuration,but with that space,I'd go with shelves on only 2 walls,preferably an L-shape config.,you can always add shelves,you DON'T want to have to remove any!! NOTHING is more frustrating ,at least for me,than having limited space to move around or banging into a shelf as you stand up. Do a great job on the vapor barrier,tape over staples,screws,whatever you use. Put ENOUGH screws ,I used stainless,in your Spanish Cedar panels/boards,that cover the walls,and make sure you have ample support,in the wall,be it for mounted or tracked shelving. One if not 2 auxillary fans is a must,to help direct the humidty to the upper shelving,OR,dead air space,depending on where you place your humidifier. My first one had no AC vent as it was in the middle of the house,and kept pretty cool. As for the stale air,as often as I was in it,wasn't an issue imo! The door on my was louvered,I simply put a piece of 1/4 Spanish Cedar Paneling on the back side,rabbited to fit inside the cornice on the door frame when closed.I'd suggest at least a solid core door,but the sky's the limit there. I had Spanish Cedar, 1/4 paneling on the floor,w/vapor barrier,tile sounds nice though,and I paln on using it in my new one! And it goes without saying,a good seal on the door.I used a soft cellulose stripping screwed to the cornice of the door frame as well as the threshold stop,this must be applied with the door installed and closed for the best seal. I'm sure some of this is redundant for you, as I was to lazy to go look up the thread at CF. My next one,which is going into an new addition on our house,MIGHT possibly have a small chiller w/ 1 3/4 celotex panels and green gyp rock,leaded glass door,built in auxillary fans,black phosphate shelving and supports,still in the planning stage,I'll let you know. Good luck bro.! __________________ RIP..CW member hoyo#9 In Gods embrace,Marlo Cabot

09-08-2002, 03:39 PM	#1
Ljutic Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: AR, USA Posts: 197	Received the green light to plan my walk-in humidor in the rear of a 4'x22' heated/cooled storage space with 9.5' high ceilings. Exterior storage space walls are 2"x6" construction, underground, and placed well away from exterior walls. Heating and cooling vent for the closet is set approx in the center of the 22' wall. Walk-in will not have it's own vent as it looks right now. I will be installing two electrical outlets and an overhead light fixture. I think a Cat5 cable hookup could be an option so I could monitor the status of the walk-in from my PC, but that might be going a bit over the top. Some questions for those that have undertaken these projects. I'm flexible in length, but not width. I think 4'x4'x9.5 would be the most cost effective size because construction materials come in 1' 4' and 8' as standard. To me, 4x4 should offer plenty of storage space for my needs. The wife thinks it should be 4'x5'x9.5'. Is there any advantage of 4x4 over 4x5 from a construction cost perspective? Should I have the builder add a HVAC vent in the walk in space? I'm considering a natural brick tile type of floor that will hold humidity. Is this a good idea? I'm very open to thoughts about a proper door for the space. It's going to be a hidden closet, so beauty isn't a requirement. What type of door is the best option for the job? It think that's all my questions for now. Thanks in advance for the help. I cross posted this over at CF as well so if you respond here, you don't need to respond over there. Thanks again.

09-09-2002, 02:51 AM	#3
SagevF Starting Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: California, USA Posts: 8	Ljutic, Speaking strictly and only as a commercial/industrial journeyman electrician, I thought this might help. Concerning the cat 5 cable, it has been my experience that if you think you might want the cat 5 then put it in. It is easy to do when the job starts and a royal pain to do after the job has been done and completed. In the commercial industrial field we always tried to pipe our electrical home runs whenever it was possible. That way we could always add circuits later on. In your case, piping is probably not the answer. What I am trying to say is you should consider making your electrical as upgradeable as possible in case you change your humidor configuration later on. For the outlets themselves you will probably need GFI (ground fault circuit interrupter) receptacles (outlet) or a GFI breaker controlling the outlets in you humidor. The reason for this is that the damp environment in the walk in could be classified as a damp location in the NEC code and could be required. I would have to check my Code Book on that one (hmmm walk in humidor flip, flip that’s a new one). Consult your electrical contractor and local codes, as well, for any other considerations. For the cat 5 make sure it is not in the same pipe or too close to you electrical wires. Sometimes the static electrical field that surrounds the electrical wires can cause interference with cat 5 cable and its associated devices. The result, you spend a couple weeks trying to figure out why you system is acting wacky only to find the cable is too close. It doesn’t happen every time but once is enough. Finally, I do not know what part of the country you live in, but I do know that some basements back east and in the mid west have moisture problems in the basements and can get moldy. So it would seem a reasonable precaution to check and make sure the basement is relatively dry and sound before you begin. We don’t have too many basements in California because of the earthquakes. I hope this helps you with your project. Sagevf

09-09-2002, 05:52 AM	#4
hank Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: USA Posts: 386	When I built my room I was going to put in a French door, but decided against it. I had a door made to fit my opening, it’s an oak door, made for an exterior installation, no glass, weather striped all around it’s nice and tight. If your going to cool and humidified the room make sure your door is not the weak point. Hank

09-09-2002, 09:52 PM	#6
Dr. X Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Northern NJ, NYC, and Palm Beach County, FL, USA Posts: 869	I'll be watching this one carefully as I am looking to enlarge, re-do, etc. one of my walk-ins. Good luck. Dr. X

09-10-2002, 06:15 AM	#7
hank Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: USA Posts: 386	Ljutic here is a link for some pictures of what I built. http://photos.yahoo.com/surveyor01001 It’s for wine and cigars, if I could change one thing I would have used more of the room for cigars, I do have so changes in mind to increase that. Hank

09-10-2002, 09:13 PM	#8
Ljutic Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: AR, USA Posts: 197	Awesome job on the walk-in Hank. Can you send me info on the climate control unit in the first picture. Not sure I'll need it, but would be nice to have the info just in case. I see you put your Aristocrat in the walk-in. I think I'll be doing the same.

09-11-2002, 06:08 AM	#9
hank Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: USA Posts: 386	Bruce, the cooling unit is an Odyssey Vintage Keeper I ordered it from them they are made in Toronto, WWW.Vintagekeeper.com I do have my Staebell, built Aristocrat in the room, that I’m going to change. I will be selling that, and use the space for a system I’m going to build this winter. Hank Edited by - hank on 09/11/2002 07:10:55 AM

09-12-2002, 06:07 AM	#10
Ljutic Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: AR, USA Posts: 197	Thanks again for the info Hank. If I need interior cooling, that's the place I'll go.