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Old 06-07-2006, 10:41 AM   #1
coppertop
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Advice on building a cabinet humidor

Does anybody here have some experience with this? I've got almost every aspect covered except the spanish cedar. I've looked at prices, thickness, and the prices are all reletively the same. But I can go with a veneer and save some serious cash, but I don't want to at the expense of my cigars. So, I guess my question is will a veneer work as well as a 1/8" thick board? A veneer will be about half the thickness of the 1/8" board. I know why Spanish cedar is used, besides those reasons (dries without warping, resistant to dry wood termites, highly resistant to decay....) is there any other reasons I would need to use pieces thicker then what would get with a veneer? Thanks for any help anyone can provide. Any words of wisdom from people who have built, or attempted to build a cabinet humidor in the past.
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Old 06-07-2006, 11:14 AM   #2
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I haven't built one, but 1/4" would seem like the minimum thickness of Spanish Cedar.

1/8" is barely more than veneer itself.

Remember, the s.p. is not just for the aroma and spiciness it imparts to the cigars. It is also a humidity buffer/control device.

That and the beetle/bug control thingy.
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Old 06-07-2006, 05:30 PM   #3
Bob Staebell
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coppertop,
If the wall thicknessof the cabinet is 3/4" & a neutral aroma wood like mahogany, you only need spanish cedar for the shelves, drawers, & trimout. That 3/4 thickness of material will provide an adequate "buffer".

As far as aroma, the cedar used for drawers, etc when combined with the cedar in the boxes will give you the nice balanced aroma of cedar desired.

Depending on size of the cabinet, one can use either passive humidifciation or active. The more full you make the cabinet the easier it will be to maintain RH....another fine reason to order more cigars.....

Cheers,
Bob Staebell
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Old 06-07-2006, 06:15 PM   #4
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Just to elaborate on Mr. Staebell's excellent advice, the type of mahogany used can make a difference.

Honduran ("true") mahogany, or swietenia macrophylla is considered a good substitute for spanish cedar. The two are actually related.

African mahogany, or khaya species, is not considered a good substitute. Its a totally different wood species all together, and varies in properties much more so than Honduran mahogany and its relatives.

I used honduran mahogany in my humidor cabinet (3/8" thick) and it has worked out nicely. I store everything in spanish cedar boxes, though.
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Old 06-07-2006, 06:26 PM   #5
coppertop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Staebell
coppertop,
If the wall thicknessof the cabinet is 3/4" & a neutral aroma wood like mahogany, you only need spanish cedar for the shelves, drawers, & trimout. That 3/4 thickness of material will provide an adequate "buffer".

As far as aroma, the cedar used for drawers, etc when combined with the cedar in the boxes will give you the nice balanced aroma of cedar desired.

Depending on size of the cabinet, one can use either passive humidifciation or active. The more full you make the cabinet the easier it will be to maintain RH....another fine reason to order more cigars.....

Cheers,
Bob Staebell
Bob,

Thank you, I hadn't expected a reply from the man himself. What if I was to use a really nice plywood (like a mahogany wood) could I still get away with not doing the entire inside in spanish cedar? Also, what do you mean by trimout?

Thanks for your help,

Mike
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Old 06-07-2006, 07:56 PM   #6
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I co-opted a kitchen cabinet during my almost completed kitchen remodel. Please accept this link to CigarPass where I documented my trivulations.

http://www.cigarpass.com/forums/inde...howtopic=21879

I would add that lining the cabinet isn't necessary. The point of the spanish cedar is to buffer your RH. You can accomplish this by using boxes and as I did, by using it on the shelves. Its 1/4" thick, by the way. I also miscalculated in thinking that the tight joints at the back were tight enough. They leaked. I sealed with hot glue. Its inert (non toxic) and gets the job done.

Lastly, I had to add stand alone air fresheners (without the scent, of course) to move the air around. These take a single D cell battery and operate one minute in 5 or some such.
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Old 06-07-2006, 08:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NullSmurf
I co-opted a kitchen cabinet during my almost completed kitchen remodel....
I like this idea!
The trays look great !
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Old 06-08-2006, 03:14 AM   #8
Bob Staebell
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Mike,
I am not a fan of traditional plywood. The veneer--substrate interface has small voids which can allow the veneer to potentially delaminate over time. I would suggest a mahogany bonded to an high quality MDF core. Much greater stability & no movement.

Cheers,
Bob
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Old 06-08-2006, 03:17 AM   #9
coppertop
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Thank you everyone, you've been a tremendious help. Bob I will look into the MDF boards today. Thanks again.

Mike
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Old 06-08-2006, 05:24 PM   #10
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Speaking of MDF, has anyone that's used MDF expensively in humidor construction ever had problems with formaldehyde fumes from the resin used in its manufacture in the finished humidor?

There are some formaldehyde-free MDF products on the market, as well as other toxin-free sheet goods made of various materials. but you'll pay a premium for them - if you can find them.

Maybe its not an issue.... ?
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