Cigar Weekly

Bob Staebell · 01-25-2003, 12:58 AM

Sounds like you have a fun project at hand. How you approach it, depends on the look you desire. Using solid wood on slab or smooth sides, dicatates that you use a face frame to isolate the expansion-contraction of the case from the door-body interface. You can also use frame & panel construction to do the same. I would still suggest a face frame for the latter as well.

The sides should be 3/4" thick oak for 30" elements. 1/4-3/8" is fine for the cedar. Allow the the cedar to "float" independent of the oak. The two woods have different rates of expansion in response to moisture. One can press fit, with a few brads in the centerline of the cedar & allow expansion to the outside edges.

Have fun with it. No real rocket science, just be a bit more precise than normal & keep in mind how the wood may move in response to changes in RH.

Bob Staebell
www.aristocrathumidors.com

01-25-2003, 12:58 AM	#9
Bob Staebell Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: TX Posts: 122	Sounds like you have a fun project at hand. How you approach it, depends on the look you desire. Using solid wood on slab or smooth sides, dicatates that you use a face frame to isolate the expansion-contraction of the case from the door-body interface. You can also use frame & panel construction to do the same. I would still suggest a face frame for the latter as well. The sides should be 3/4" thick oak for 30" elements. 1/4-3/8" is fine for the cedar. Allow the the cedar to "float" independent of the oak. The two woods have different rates of expansion in response to moisture. One can press fit, with a few brads in the centerline of the cedar & allow expansion to the outside edges. Have fun with it. No real rocket science, just be a bit more precise than normal & keep in mind how the wood may move in response to changes in RH. Bob Staebell www.aristocrathumidors.com