Autumn jaunt to Niagara wine country...

[jazznut]

My friend and I recently decided that a trip to the Niagara Peninsula winegrowing region was in order, so we headed on down the Queen Elizabeth Way toward The Escarpment and western Lake Ontario this past Tuesday in search of a few vinous delights. It was a quick 3 hour drive-through, given that we needed to be back in Toronto by late afternoon.

Our first stop was at Henry of Pelham, located at the corner of 5th Street and Pelham Road. This family estate has long been one of my favourite Ontario wineries, as it combines an unpretentious exterior and warm, friendly atmosphere with production of truly fine wines. The Riesling Icewine counts amongst the best of the region, being both elegantly structured and very cellar worthy. We were more interested in table wines this time around, however, and stuck to a couple of relatively inexpensive reds.

The 2003 Baco Noir (13% and $12.95CDN) was true to the great-value-for-money reputation this wine has established over the last few years, displaying a nice mini-explosion of dense, clean fruit on the palate – a perfect accompaniment to barbecues or hearty pasta dishes. The 2002 Unfiltered Cabernet-Merlot (13.5% and ~$25CDN), from grapes harvested from older, low-yielding vines, tasted as though it was just beginning to open up. The focused berry fruit and velvety tannins of this wine bode well for some good drinking over the next few years. We also saw a brand new Reserve series of wines labelled under the Speck Family nomenclature, which ranged from ~$35 to $50 in cost, but weren’t able to sample these.

While outside, we wandered around the vineyards a little bit. Quite a few bunches of Riesling and Cabernet remained on the vines we walked by, as well as some Gewurztraminer. The grapes appeared uniformly small and tightly packed, a testament to the long dry summer of 2005. I also noted early isolated evidence of noble rot on some of the Gewurztraminer and Riesling. What potential this vintage has for great, concentrated wines!

From the backwaters of Jordan, we headed toward Vineland Estates Winery, situated on gently sloping land between Vineland and Beamsville. I was surprised that there was no directional indication for the winery along Regional Road 81, the official Wine Route, but only a modest sign at the intersection of two back roads.

This was my first visit to this winery, and I was quite taken aback by the ‘Napa Valley’ appearance of the place. I can see why it’s a favoured spot for gatherings and overnight stays. The architecture of the buildings may be slightly over-the-top by local standards, but it blends in well enough with the natural beauty of the surrounding countryside.

Despite an overall relaxed aura to the winery, I had the distinct impression that it was designed to cater to a crowd more interested in creature comfort and superficial niceties than in the particulars of the winemaking process or true vinous quality. I could be wrong of course, but I nonetheless found the answers provided to my pointed inquiries about specific wines a little less than fully informative. That said, the place IS quite lovely, especially when bathed in brilliant sunlight as it was on our visit.

And the wines… I was very pleased to be able to nab some 2004 St. Urban Riesling (11.3% and ~$20CDN), a classically crisp white with bracing mineral-citrus acidity wound around Mosel-like Granny Smith apple fruit that I haven’t laid hands on in far too long a time. The 2001 Cabernet-Merlot (13% with 14 months in French oak, ~$15CDN) was also a nice mouthful, and was drinking perfectly. The spokesperson at the counter raved about the Special Reserve Meritage, but I wasn’t about to be seduced by the $125 asking price, no matter the quality. Maybe I missed a real treat, yet at this exalted level I think I’d rather opt for a cask-strength single malt just about any day of the week!

From the sophisticated environs of Vineland Estates, we continued homeward toward Grimsby and the somewhat industrial-looking Kittling Ridge Estates Winery & Distillery. Plunked uncerimoniously right on the service road of the QEW, this operation smacks of a budget, jug-wine approach to grapes and grain, in total contrast to our previous stop. I only found a single palate-worthy wine here – the 2004 Symmetry Old Vines Foch (12.5% and $13.95). With its intense burst of fruit and fresh acidity encased within a decent tannic structure, this wine was actually quite enjoyable. And the foxiness one sometimes notices with this varietal was practically non-existent. I’ve tasted worse at double the price.

As for Kittling Ridge’s distilled products, the Barrel Select Whisky is always a good tipple, with the oak influence providing a nice spicy backdrop for the sweet surge of grains. There was also a new whisky liqueur available incorporating maple syrup and a bit of honey with spirit, called Oh Canada! I found it rather one dimensional (too much maple and too little whisky presence for my taste) but pleasant enough. Others might like it far more. Both these products have garnered awards at spirits competitions, by the way.

Obviously, we missed far, far more than we were able to see. And the wine region is currently undergoing tremendous expansion, as fruit farmers and landowners alike turn more of their land over to vine cultivation. On the downside, much of this growth is taking place on more level land further removed from The Escarpment.

Such is progress.