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Old 05-19-2008, 06:05 AM   #1
TommyBB
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Montreal Gazette Wine Article.

Quote:
The Gazette (Montreal)

May 17, 2008 Saturday
Final Edition

A second renaissance in Tuscany; Forget the straw basket. Chianti's rebirth as a serious wine is spurred by experimentation and new rules

BYLINE: BILL ZACHARKIW, The Gazette

SECTION: WEEKEND: LIFE; Bill Zacharkiw; Pg. J6

LENGTH: 1860 words

The mere mention of Chianti evokes images of bottles in straw baskets, red-checkered table cloths and a big bowl of spaghetti. But alongside Bordeaux, few regions are as synonymous with wine as Chianti. Located in the centre of Tuscany, it is the most prolific region in all of Italy, exporting close to 900 million litres of wine last year.

But how many of you drink the stuff?

I do. In fact, I often compare Chianti with Bordeaux, the equivalent region in France. The best examples are solidly built wines that have a cellaring capability that can match many of the world's top wines. It is a wine that combines aromatic complexity with elegance, and is one of the world's most versatile wines. But many examples can be, well, rather banal.

So what is the real Chianti and why is there such a difference in quality between bottles?

The fiasco: A short history of Chianti

First, let's get back to that bottle in the straw basket, called a "fiasco" in Italian. However, the English translation of the word is probably a better descriptor of the modern history of Chianti. While its wines can be traced to the 14th century, the first significant event in the region took place in 1713, when it became the first wine-producing area in the world to define the laws that govern the production of wine. But while the 1713 decree touched on methods of production, more importantly it was the first of many expansions of the geographic boundaries of what is considered Chianti.

Chianti's modern history began in 1932 with a massive expansion that increased the size of the appellation to more than 22,000 hectares, twice the size of modern-day Bordeaux. Chianti was divided into seven sub-regions, the most notable called "Classico," which included the original Chianti-producing area from the 1713 decree. However, after the expansion, this original area made up only 40 per cent of this new "Classico" appellation and only 10 per cent of the total Chianti region.

Such a large area had such a multitude of terroirs that it became increasingly difficult to identify a Chianti style.

In 1967, the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) was enacted. These laws defined the geographical territories and wine-making practices in Italy. A number of areas didn't want to be left out of Chianti, so the area was further expanded by another 10 per cent. While this legislation set out even stricter rules regarding yields and grape choices, this led to a massive planting of vines, often in areas that were not suitable for growing quality grapes. Yes, more and more wine was being produced, but much of it was fairly diluted, poor-quality table wine.

1984: A response to the Super Tuscan

In 1860, Baron Ricasoli, an important politician in the region and Chianti producer, decided his recipe for Chianti was best, and his decree stated that Chianti should be 70-per-cent sangiovese, 15-per-cent canaiolo and 15-per-cent malvasia bianca (a very aromatic white grape). It took some time for the region to embrace his recipe, but it was the first step in making sangiovese the grape of Chianti.

While 1967 DOC law further concretized the importance of sangiovese, the stringent laws left little room for experimentation. One of Chianti's most famous families, the Antinoris, had long experimented with Bordeaux varietals cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, dating to as early as 1900, when Piero Antinori purchased the now famous Tignanello vineyard. This culminated in 1971, when his grandson Piero decided to market a sangiovese-based wine from this vineyard that also contained both cabernets. Although the Tignanello vineyard was in the heart of Chianti, because the wine included cabernet but did not have white grapes, it could not be called Chianti. Instead, it was labelled as a simple "Vino da Tavolo."

But it was a resounding success, and alongside the Bolgheri-based Sassicaia, was to lead a number of producers in the region to produce other non-Chianti wines that eventually became known as "super Tuscans." In a region looking to improve the image of its wines, to have one of its most famous families succeed with a wine made in the heart of Chianti Classico but not called a Chianti was a bit of a slap in the face.

In response, a new denomination called Denominazione di Origine Controllatae Garantita (DOCG) was created in 1984 to allow for more experimentation. Yields were lowered to increase quality and, while the percentage of sangiovese as a part of the blend was maintained, winemakers could now use up to 25 per cent of other grapes in the blend, including 10 per cent of international varieties like the cabernets, merlot and syrah.

Drinking Chianti

Despite the change of rules, Antinori never labelled its Tignanello a Chianti. Who could blame him? So many poor quality Chiantis had cheapened the name of the appellation. Chianti at that moment was not synonymous with "fine wine." And while it seems that every major winery now has its own "super Tuscan," their fame and success have also inspired a number of more traditional winemakers to make a better Chianti.

In the 1990s, the Riserva classification was created for wines aged a minimum of 24 months in oak, and at least three months in bottle prior to being put on the market. And in 2005, a decree raised the minimum percentage of sangiovese to 80 per cent of the final blend with the possibility of using 100-per-cent sangiovese.

The increased role of the sangiovese grape is important in a world dominated by international varietals. For me, it is distinctly Italian. Sangiovese's signature flavour profile is a blend of cherry and plum flavours combined with leather and other earthier notes. Its relatively high acidity and good tannins make it an ideal wine for long cellaring when yields are low. And when made into less expensive wines, providing attention is paid to bringing in ripe grapes, the wines can show a higher acidity combined with vibrant fruits and floral notes, making it one of the more versatile wines on the shelves.

And what accompanies Chianti at the table? Because of the tannins, the more concentrated, age-worthy bottles can accompany most red meats, especially with mushrooms. So osso bucco is perfect, and don't fear serving them alongside lamb or even deer. And what about your red-checkered table cloth and that big bowl of spaghetti? Lighter, more inexpensive versions, because of their relatively high acidity, are perfect for any tomato sauce since tomatoes also have a high acidity and can wreak havoc on many wines.

THIS WEEK'S SUGGESTIONS: CHIANTI COMBAT

With 27 Chiantis to sample, it was time to resurrect the tasting panel. The latest incarnation included Nick Hamilton, wine critic at Voir and wine educator (www.lesconseillersduvin.ca); Natalie Spielman, the woman behind the "all things gastronomy" blog Food with a Point (http://foodwithapoint.squarespace.com); Ryan Gray, sommelier and wine buyer for Liverpool House; and Louis Phillipe Riel, the only person crazy enough to give up the fame and fortune of a sommelier position to go back to the kitchen to be a chef. All wines were tasted blind. This is a good cross-section of what is available, but there is only so much one person can drink at one sitting. Two Chiantis that were not tasted but are personal favourites are Fonterutoli by Mazzei and Castello di Ama. I will review the latest vintages of these two wines in coming weeks.

Best under $15 - Six wines tasted

Chianti DOCG 2006, Gabbiano, Italy red, SAQ #10754279, $14.75. By a long shot the favourite of the panel. Complex, sultry, elegant, well-balanced and substantial, the notes of plums and sour cherries with just a hint of earthiness proves inexpensive Chianti need not just be fruity and easy to drink. Drink now-2010. Food pairing: Spaghetti or white meats served with tomato sauce.

Best under $20 - Six wines tasted

Chianti Classico DOCG 2005, Villa Cerna, Italy red, SAQ # 573519, $18.80. The key word here was balance. There is just enough acidity to keep it fresh, tannin to give it structure, and fruit and earthy notes to offer complexity. This "charming wine," as Nick referred to it, is a great example of the new Chianti - easy-drinking and ripe, modern, if you like, while not losing site of where it comes from. Drink now-2012. Food pairing: Osso bucco, beef stews, tomato meat sauces.

Best under $25 - Six wines tasted

Chianti R—fina DOCG 2005, Riserva, Castello Nipozzano, Frescobaldi, Italy red, SAQ # 107276, $21.85. At the price level where our Chiantis started to show much more depth and structure, the Nippozanno was the clear winner. It was referred to as animal - meaty, solid - and showed notes of dark fruit mixed with bitter chocolate. While the oak and rich fruit dominated, I loved the elegant cherry finish. Great wine with potential to get even better with some time in a cellar. Drink now-2013. Food pairing: Stronger flavoured meats like lamb, duck or steak with flavourful sauce.

Best under $30 - Six wines tasted

Chianti Classico DOCG 2003, Riserva, Castello di Meleto, Italy red, SAQ # 875336, $28.60. The only category without a decisive winner, but with two first-place votes and a second place, the Meleto stuck its nose out over the finish line. It showed notes of espresso and mocha combined with spice, a hint of sweet wild cherry and other wild berries alongside tobacco notes. Lots of character. Drink now-2012. Food pairing: Lamb, wild meats, beef with port sauce.

Best over $30 - Three wines tasted

Chianti Classico DOCG 2001, Riserva, Poggio Rosso, San Felice, Italy red, SAQ # 401471, $50. Always look for the first empty bottle when judging who wins. And this was it. Ready to drink, it had an interesting mineral quality, with cloves, dark cooked fruits - all of them stored in a cigar box. Supple but with great length, this was very good. Quantities are very limited. Drink now-2010. Food pairing: Osso bucco.

Honorable mentions

Chianti Colli Senesi DOC 2005, Carpineta Fontalpino, Italy red, SAQ # 10854085, $18.90. While it finished a close second in its category, it was my first choice. Colli Senesi is one of the original seven regions from the 1932 decree, and this Chianti showed a ton of complexity with tasters noting everything from strawberry and black raspberry to tobacco and mocha. I loved how the tannins coated my mouth. Great choice for an under-$20 wine for your cellar. Drink now-2014. Food pairing: Fattier cut of beef with herbs, roast.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2005, San Felice, Italy red, SAQ # 245241, $22.05. Still had a characteristic oakiness of a young wine. Lots of elegance with an interesting menthol quality to go alongside the fruit. Decent tannins and good length. Will improve with some cellaring. Drink now-2012. Food pairing: Lamb, grilled meats.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2004, Riserva di Famiglia, Cecchi, Italy red, SAQ # 10844418, $26.20. Looking for a wine for a little tête-à-tête with your spouse, lover, etc. - this could be it. Chocolaty, silky tannins, lots of sweet spice, this was described as a comfortable wine, easy drinking and very elegant - buy one and keep it perhaps for next Valentine's Day! Drink now-2012. Food pairing: Chicken or pork roast.
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