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Old 03-20-2018, 08:36 PM   #11
grtrx
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https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...B4&FORM=VDQVAP
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Old 03-21-2018, 04:51 AM   #12
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My daughter does it rather successfully, but she just screws it up unbelievably over and over because she thinks that she must follow her special growing conditions.

She insists on using shallow trays and extremely fluffy potting mix. She keeps it damp, maybe even wet. Of course, when they get heavy, nothing gets though the canopy and they rot from below. The soil will mold. Somehow, she gets aphids. Last year she captured a ladybugs and put it on one of her plants, it flew away before she even turned her back.

So, the suggestion I have is don't use fluffy peat moss. Use heavier soil and keep it dry. Keep it trimmed so light and air can get through, why keep leaves on the bottom when they won't get Light? Put some nicely wrinkled foil on the back to reflect light at the bottom and back, the light on all four sides is just wasted if it escapes. Soap if you get bugs. Sterilize your soil before planting or recycling for about fifteen minutes in you oven at the very lowest setting possible. Liquid fertilizer at the lowest recommended level or a full measure of time released granules.

Essentially a stable, clean environment, clean moderately fertile soil, soil that stays dry enough to prevent rot. Keep plants small, they get no wind, no sunlight from the sides, no periods of dryness, the light comes only on the top ten percent or so of the leaves. Proper plant hygiene.
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Old 03-21-2018, 05:13 AM   #13
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I have done it several ways - with just a regular fluorescent fixture and grow bulbs - works well but takes up space and you have to keep the fixture LOW to the plants or they get VERY gangly.

I have also used an AeroGarden - hydroponic with growlights and these work very well except the output is low - only a half dozen spots so I go 3 basil, 3 Italian parsley. This is the more expensive route as you have to use their seed pods (I tried monkeying a replacement but the results were horrible) but you can use other liquid fertilizer for the hyro-tank.

Even here in Iowa I find that a sunny window will do well in the depths of winter, I keep a rosemary and a basil plant going year round in the kitchen window and they do fairly well (I transplant one from my deck containers in the fall).
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Old 03-21-2018, 03:09 PM   #14
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Southern exposures are limited, modern houses haven't got good southern window exposure or good rooms that you could put plants in. You can grow houseplants and some flowers inside, but filtered indirect ambient light isn't good for anything not listed as shade plants. If you don't have them getting a solid few hours or so of pretty much full sun, your herbs may not do so well, and they're not going to be particularly good. Just like it is if you put the rose Bush under the shade tree.

If you get lousy results that aren't caused by soil conditions or other problems supplement the Windows with a fluorescent tube light or grow tube light. Put it on a five hour timer, I guess? Just keep in mind that lots of light, plenty of light, it's beneficial for almost any plant. I'm just saying that if your results aren't good, try a few simple changes and put in light if you need to.

What's the difference between a ten foot tall crepe myrtle and a thirty six inch one?

I planted them both in 2001, but one was planted where I wanted to put it, and the other one went where she wanted it.
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:25 PM   #15
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I think soylent green grows well in shade
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Old 03-22-2018, 05:34 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Briandg View Post
Southern exposures are limited, modern houses haven't got good southern window exposure or good rooms that you could put plants in. You can grow houseplants and some flowers inside, but filtered indirect ambient light isn't good for anything not listed as shade plants. If you don't have them getting a solid few hours or so of pretty much full sun, your herbs may not do so well, and they're not going to be particularly good. Just like it is if you put the rose Bush under the shade tree.

If you get lousy results that aren't caused by soil conditions or other problems supplement the Windows with a fluorescent tube light or grow tube light. Put it on a five hour timer, I guess? Just keep in mind that lots of light, plenty of light, it's beneficial for almost any plant. I'm just saying that if your results aren't good, try a few simple changes and put in light if you need to.

What's the difference between a ten foot tall crepe myrtle and a thirty six inch one?

I planted them both in 2001, but one was planted where I wanted to put it, and the other one went where she wanted it.
If you are relying on grow lights you will need a timer and run it more like 18hrs a day as they are no where near "sun strength". That is my experience from starting seeds in the basement for the garden. Again you also need some way to control the lights height and keep it almost touching the plants. When starting seeds (tomato's, peppers, etc) I would wait until they had grown up INTO the light before moving it up. That reduced the amount of "leggyness" that indoor seedlings seem to get.
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:03 AM   #17
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You're right with all of that. Especially the part regarding long hours of exposure for plants that get no sun. For supplement of window boxes you can do with less.

Fluorescent bulbs don't put much energy out, only a small fraction of what direct, or even filtered sunlight produces. Without good light plants can't thrive. And you are right, those plants will reach for the light, getting leggy.

I'm looking at my aquarium right now. An aquarium from the classified ads, grow lights, unglazed pots, that would make a good set up. A half dozen small plants instead of a few big ones. You could probably water it by pouring in a gallon of water once a week and just letting it absorb.

Again, you will need to keep them harvested and trimmed. No matter what you eventually do, it's not something that you can stick in the ground and ignore, you will have to take feedback from the plants and manage them properly.
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:13 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by vernonator View Post
. Again you also need some way to control the lights height and keep it almost touching the plants. When starting seeds (tomato's, peppers, etc) I would wait until they had grown up INTO the light before moving it up. That reduced the amount of "leggyness" that indoor seedlings seem to get.
The problem there is that the source never moves. The plants reach for the light, look at street trees and forest trees. If you can use two or even three bars, set one aiming down and the others angling in on the sides.

Again, I recommend Mylar foil at the sides to reflect all lost light to the sides of the plants. One of those windshield protectors, best to get one of the ones with bubble cells, will be a great benefit.
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Old 03-22-2018, 08:30 AM   #19
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Brian

I like the aquarium idea , I can line it with the reflective Mylar from home depot...

Thanks

Dan
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Old 03-22-2018, 07:26 PM   #20
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Don't forget heat. You need to keep everything warm to promote germination in addition to the lights.
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